Bryce is Nice

The morning after our tour of Zion N.P. we set out bright and early for our next stop: Bryce Canyon N.P. This entailed taking Utah State Route 9 through the southern portion of Zion and out the east entrance of the park. This was a typical western mountain road, twisting and turning through mountainous terrain and including some spectacular views.

A view from our SUV as we drove on UT Rt. 9

Another view from UT Rt. 9

The road ultimately crested at the Mt. Carmel Tunnel - considered one of the engineering wonders of the world. This tunnel was built in the late 1920's and is cut over a mile through solid rock. The tunnel has no interior lighting (Duh! no electricity in this remote area.) and the only lighting comes from galleries cut in the side of the tunnel to the outside world. For more info, see Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zion_%E2%80%93_Mount_Carmel_Highway.

One of the switchbacks on UT Rt. 9

The entrance to the Mt. Carmel Tunnel

Eventually, our trusty route 9 led us out of Zion N.P. and down to a crossroad called Mt. Carmel Junction. From there, we turned North on another road toward Bryce N.P. On the way we stopped in a little town called Hatch at a place called the "Galaxy Diner". They served a decent breakfast but the interesting thing was the waitress telling us that they were expecting snow in a few days - because after all, the town was at over 6,000 feet elevation.

Backing up to our planning for the trip we had reasoned that it was late September, we were going to the desert - therefore shorts and summer clothes! Umm, right. Now it was over 100 degrees when we landed in Vegas, but that was Vegas, at only 2,000 feet. We had planned to probably buy some souvenir sweat shirts on the trip, but we didn't expect them to become a necessity. As it was, we sort of lucked out as the really cold weather seemed to always be a day or two behind us. But onward to Bryce Canyon.

Bryce is different from Zion in that the main road through the park goes along the top of the canyon, not unlike the Grand Canyon, and one looks down into the canyon, or, as it is more properly called in this case, amphitheater. There are hiking trails which one can take down into the amphitheater itself, but for our limited time frame, we chose to just do the auto road and the numerous lookouts.

The most typical feature of Bryce are the vertical red sandstone formations called "hoodoos". They are caused by erosion and are quite striking in appearance.

Some typical hoodoos - these are actually on the road to Bryce N.P.


A lone hoodoo

A cluster of these strange formations seen from one of Bryce's many lookout points.

There were many narrow slot canyons. Hiking trails led through some of them.

A more long-range view looking out across the Bryce amphitheater

A sort of side canyon with a cluster of isolated hoodoos. Apparently, "hoodoo" is an actual geological term.

This particular Hoodoo is called "Thor's Hammer"


A spectacular view from one of the higher points in Bryce N.P.



A natural arch at one of the Bryce lookouts

A short video taken by Michelle at a lookout point near the "Grottos" Note on the left the many natural alcoves in the rock.

Bryce was extremely striking visually, but I think I preferred Zion for some reason. Maybe it was because it was more diverse, whereas Bryce was just mostly Hoodoo after Hoodoo.

That night we stayed in a place called "Ruby's Inn" which is currently a Best Western franchise but has been located at the entrance to Bryce Canyon N.P. since nineteen-ought something. It's pretty much the only game in town unless you want to drive a half-hour or more. The room was sort of a standard motel room: clean with an acceptable bed, but not anything like luxury. That night we were tired and did not want to take a lot of time for dinner, so we ate their dinner buffet. It was terrible. If I had to do it over I would have found lodgings and dinner elsewhere.

The next morning we were up early and off on our rather long drive to the Arches National Park in southwestern Utah. We had not originally planned such a long drive but since we wanted to make our way ultimately to the Durango and Silverton Railroad in southwestern Colorado, it was sort of on our way. We were glad we saw the Arches - they were pretty amazing.

The road from Bryce Canyon to our next destination led through this natural arch.

More next time.

Go West Old Man

This past September, Michelle and I took a trip that we have both wanted to do for a long time. We flew to Las Vegas NV and rented a car. From there we took off on a sort of grand tour of a number of the western National Parks in Utah, Colorado, and Arizona along with a train ride into the Rockies, a ride through the Four Corners country, and a stop at one of the world's best known movie locations. Not to mention a glimpse into the lives of some American Indians both ancient and modern.

We flew into Las Vegas McCarran Airport, arriving in the afternoon. From the airline terminal,a shuttle took us to the airport rental car center (no more individual lots and buildings for each rental firm - they have been combined into one huge terminal and garage) where we picked up our Ford Escape - a small, fairly fuel efficient SUV. It turns out that we were to be glad of the all wheel drive and especially the higher ground clearance.

That evening we stayed in a casino resort hotel called the South Point. It's located about six miles south of the Vegas Strip but still on Las Vegas Boulevard. Our main reason for staying there was that it had gotten fairly good reviews, was inexpensive, and located about thirty seconds from an entrance to I-15 north. It was actually a pretty nice place with attractive rooms, comfortable beds and decent food. I guess I'd recommend it to anyone who didn't care about being near the Strip. But for us, it was just a place to sleep on our first night. The next morning, we were on the road by 7 AM and heading up I-15 toward Utah and Zion National Park.

The South Point Casino Hotel - Their website is: www.southpointcasino.com

After about a four hour drive, including a stop for breakfast, we arrived at Springdale Utah and the main entrance to Zion National Park. I should mention that Springdale is a nice little town with a kind of a "new age" feel to it. It has a number of motels, bed and breakfasts, restaurants, and gift shops. But we already had a reservation for the night at a Best Western in Springdale, so we pressed on to the park just down the road.

Now getting old is no fun, but it does have its occasional perks. The U.S. National Parks Service has a program for senior citizens (62+) whereby you can pay a one-time fee of $10 and recieve a lifetime pass for all national parks. I bought my pass at the entrance to Zion National Park and for the rest of the trip, Michelle and I got into all the National Parks for free. Not a bad deal.

The entrance to Zion N.P.

We parked just outside the entrance to the park, and after crossing a small foot bridge, we gained entrance to the park and the free shuttle which is provided for visitors as a way of sparing the park the ravages of private auto traffic. Only guests who stay at the lodge inside the park are permitted to drive their vehicle into the valley and then only as far as the lodge.

The busses were very comfortable, eco-friendly (they ran on propane) and ran about every six minutes with many stops at major points of interest.

A Zion Park Shuttle

A typical rock formation in the valley.


The "Court of the Patriarchs" Left to right: Abraham, Isaac and Jacob. Named by a Methodist Minister who visited the area in 1916

The shuttle makes its way up the valley to a point where the valley becomes so narrow (in fact the area is called "the Narrows") it would be impossible to build a road through it. It then makes a loop and heads back to the park entrance. There is also another road, which is actually Utah route 9, which cuts across the southern part of the park and takes one out to Mt. Carmel Utah. More about that road later.

The sheer rock walls of Zion are popular with rock climbers. While riding the shuttle, we saw these folks about two-thirds of the way up their climb (inside the red circle)

Another view of the canyon

Zion Canyon is carved from a huge area called the Colorado Plateau, which covers much of SW Colorado, Southern Utah, and Northern Arizona. The rocks which make up the canyon walls, like many of the western canyons (the Grand Canyon included) are made up of layers laid down over millennia as ancient sea beds etc. The canyon itself was carved over more time by the erosive force of a river and the sand and rock particles which it carries. This erosion is still going on today.

The Virgin River which is responsible for the formation of Zion Canyon. The Virgin is a tributary of the Colorado River. It is apparently named for a pioneer named Thomas Virgin.

One of the effects of the rock layering in the walls of Zion Canyon, has to do with permeability to water. It seems the upper layers of the rock are water permeable and ground water, rain, snow melt etc. have no trouble percolating through it. However at a point part way up the walls, there is a non-water permeable layer. This forces the water to seek its way out between the layers.

One of the stops on the Zion shuttle is a trail to "Weeping Rock". This is a short but steep hike which takes one up to a natural alcove in the canyon wall. The junction between the permeable/impermeable layers, called the "spring line" is just above this alcove and once there we found ourselves behind an actual water fall.

Here is a short video taken by Michelle from the alcove under "Weeping Rock". If you look to the left of the scene you can see some of the water drizzling down.

After "Weeping Rock" the bus continued to the end of the road near where the Virgin River emerges from the narrow slot canyon which marks the northern end of the paved and developed area of Zion. Beyond this, hikers with permits can follow the course of the river for several miles and more.

The Virgin River as it emerges from the "Narrows"

After spending some time wandering around the entrance to the "Narrows", we hopped a shuttle and rode down the canyon to the Zion Lodge where we had some lunch.

Zion Lodge

After lunch, we rode the shuttle back to the park entrance and set out to our motel to check in . After a brief rest, we went looking for a place to have dinner. We found a restaurant called "The Spotted Dog" where we had one of the best meals on our trip, albeit it was a bit pricey but worth what we paid. Then back to the Best Western Zion Park Inn for a good night's sleep and to press on in the morning.

Best Western Zion Park Inn-Springdale UT

Next: Bryce Canyon